تأثير بعض الأساليب التنفيذية للحياكة على خواص و أداء الحياكة لبعض الأقمشة المبردية المنتجة من الألياف فائقة الدقة

الملخص EN

This study aims to conduct an experimental study of the effect of practical sewing methods on the properties and performance of twilled fabrics produced from ultra-fine fibers, and the importance of this study appears in trying to upgrade the product made of ultra-fine fibers to reach the highest possible quality levels and the use of scientific research in reducing problems resulting from sewing the twilled fabrics produced from ultra-fine fibers, by obtaining the most appropriate (number of sewing thread, sewing seam type, length of sewing stitch, textile structure, weft thread density) for the fabrics produced under this study.

To achieve this, these fabrics were produced at Misr Spinning and Weaving Company in El-Mahalla El-Kubra with the following variables: -Three weft densities were used, which were: (57, 62, 67) weft / inch.

-Three different textile structures were used, which were: (2/1 twill, whipcord twill, broken twill).

The specifications of warp and weft threads were fixed for all the fabrics produced under this study, the warp thread was made of 100 Cotton (No.14/1), and the weft was from the Microfiber (300) denier.

Then the sewing was performed on the samples according to the following sewing variables: 1-Number of sewing thread: spinned Polyester thread was used No.

(20/2, 40/2) English numbering.

2-Sewing seam type: two types of sewing seam were used (Regular seam SSa.1, English seam LSc.2).

3-Length of sewing stitch: three stitch lengths were used, which are (2, 3, 4) mm respectively.

Some laboratory tests were conducted on the fabrics produced under this study at the National Research Center in Dokki under standard conditions (relative humidity 65 ± 2, temperature 20 ± 2 °C) in order to determine their different properties and the relationship of these properties to the study variables, where the ANOVA analysis was used, (Tuky) test was also used to know the signifance of the effect of this study's variables on the properties of the fabrics produced under this study to obtain the correlation factor, and regression equations as well as the use of ( Rader Charts) multi-axis to assess the quality of the fabrics produced under this study.

The study presented a set of results based on scientific and standard criteria and the most important results that were reached: - The fabric produced with a textile structure (twilled whipcord), the weft density of (57, 62, 67) weft / inch), the English seam (LSc.2), the length of the sewing stitch (2 mm), and the number of the sewing thread (20/2) English numbering is the best for all the measured properties of the produced fabrics under the study with a quality factor (89,59).

The study emphasized the necessity of linking research agencies and readymade clothing factories to achieve the highest possible quality and upgrading and developing the ready-made clothing industry.