بناء نماذج مسطحه لبعض تصميمات الأكوال المشكلة على المانيكان

الملخص EN

There are many methods of building patterns , but there are two basic methods, the flat method and modelling on dress-stand method, the flat method is a method for drawing patterns using foundations and mathematical methods in the form of measurements that represent the human body and are in the form of lengths and perimeters on the basis of a two-dimensional concept although the body is a template Three-dimensional .

The modelling methodis characterized by the uniqueness among the methods of preparing the patterns, where the designer or the preparer of the pattern formed the fabric on the dress stand through successive steps, modifies it, evaluates its steps and improves it, depending on his skill and his Abandonment ability until the fabric is transformed into a 3D shape .

In addition to preparing patterns, the modeling method is used as a way to make adjustments "rehearsal " to the clothes that were manufactured by paper patterns , which indicates its inaccuracy.

The modifications made to the paper pattern are an attempt to change some lines that do not match the shape of the body to become identical to it.

The paper patterns still needed to modify until the middle of the nineteenth century, so clothing makers resorted to developing them by combining the modelling method and the paper pattern method by using the industrial body.

Most pattern designers make the pattern by combining the modelling method and the flat method, where the pattern is built first in the flat method and then placed on the dress stand or human body to make the necessary adjustments to it.

The collar plays an important role in the general shape of the uniform, as it is considered one of the most important parts of the clothing because of its effective role, as it either emphasizes the elements of beauty in the clothes or from the reasons for reducing these elements or spoiling the appearance; It must be given special attention in all stages of its production.Problem : Through the researcher's work in teaching many pattern courses for the students of the Garment and Textile Division and other divisions in the college, I noticed that there is no way to build paper patterns for many of the composite techniques that are unique to the modeling method without the rest of the other methods for preparing patterns, and among these techniques are some of collars designs Used in women’s coats; Hence the idea of the research, which is an attempt to propose new paper patterns (for some designs of collars that are difficult to build in the flat method), which is derived from the patterns formed on the dress-stand .

Objectives : 1- Attempting to obtain a proposed flat method for constructing some collars patterns that can only be constructed by the modelling on dress-stand method.

2- Contributing to developing new flat patterns for collars other than the traditional models.

Methodology : The research follows the semi-applied approach to suitability to achieve the research objectives and verify its hypotheses.

Results : - There are statistically significant differences between the fitting levels (appropriate-to some extent - not appropriate) for each of the three designs, where the adjustment (appropriate) was achieved in the designs at rates higher than (90 %) against very small ratios for lack of fitting (not appropriate) in Some elements do not exceed 1.4 %.

- There are no statistically significant differences between the sizes used in a single design, meaning that the degree of control of the proposed.