Computational mechanics of fabric tailor ability : part I : build infrastructure

الملخص EN

Sewing operation is the heart of the garment factory, so researchers work hard to monitor the performance of sewing elements (thread-fabric-machine) in order to obtain garments without problems or what is known as tailor ability.

this investigation consists of three parts.

the first part is dealing with the infrastructure and sewing machine sew ability index, while the second concentrated on the influence of plasma treatment ,on overall fabric tailor ability index.

last part is the relation between specific sewing stress and sewing degradation.

it is known that, fabric assurance by simple test (FAST) offers a laboratory system of four mechanical tests to assess the tailor ability, while kawabata evaluation system for fabrics (KES-F) includes another laboratory system consisting of four measuring machines and mathematical method to assess the fabric handle.

on the other hand (L&M) suability tester measured fabric resistance to sewing needle penetration, as a measure of fabric suability.

the previous systems have many negative features, such as they are tedious and lengthy, they cannot used to assess direct sew ability / and or tailor ability, nonfan give reliable information about fabric anisotropy, fabric wear ability assessment, fabric skin-comfort, fabric roughness and specific sewing stress.

thus, it is obvious that rapid and simple method for assessing fabric sews ability and / or fabric tailor ability is badly needed.

the results of this study gives a test method and/or mathematical procedure for calculating overall fabric tailor ability index (OTI), as a function of fabric process ability (FP) ,fabric saw ability (FSA) ,fabric sew ability (FSE) and fabric form ability (FF).

to test the relationship between specific sewing stress (SSS-CN / tex) measured by modified fabric sew ability tester (ST2), and fabric tailor ability index, measured by fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST), coefficient of concordance, "W", has been calculated.

It was found that "W" value reaches 0.702, i.e., good agreement.

That result was expected, cause, "SSS”, is measured the fabric sew ability phenomena only, while "FAST" measured fabric tailor ability phenomena, which sew ability is a part of it.