Modeling of on Shore Propagation of Random Water Waves

Abstract EN

Two numerical models are investigated to model random water waves (RWWs) transformation due to mild depth variation.

Modelling of steady on-shore propagation of small-amplitude RWWs is based on superposition principle of waves of different heights and directions.

Each component is simulated through either the parabolic model (PM) or the elliptic model (EM).

PM simulates weak refraction, diffraction, shoaling, and wave breaking.

EM simulates strong refraction, diffraction, and shoaling.

Both models neglect wave reflection.

Comparison between PM and EM, in test cases that are experimentally measured, proved that both models give good results for unidirectional and narrow-directional RWW.

However, EM is more accurate in modelling broad-directional RWWs.